With only one night in the Savuti camp we were keen to make the most of our stay and so before dawn broke, the boys were busy breaking camp to allow for a morning game drive around before heading off to Moremi Game Reserve. That said it did take a little longer to raise the troops after some unexpected visitors that night. Our tent had unfortunately fallen victim to two honey badgers who had surgically cut two holes in the side of the tent and helped themselves to whatever delights they could find inside. Fortunately we did hear the clank of pots as they stumbled around in earnest and so it wasn’t long before four brave souls squared off against two honey badgers. Needless to say they took what they wanted and we were not game to test their sharp claws and teeth any further.
With all four bundled into the car we headed off on our morning game drive, keen to find the elusive zebra which had only days before been so abundant in the area. To do this we decided to head off towards the Savuti Marshes and find some forgotten tracks, as it was here that we would surely find gold. BAD IDEA, we found the forgotten tracks and soon after found ourselves very lost as the tracks very quickly turned into game trails and then deep mapane forest. One could have quite easily back tracked on the route we had just come in on, but in true “Why Not” fashion we decided to bundubash and make a beeline for the closest main road. How hard could it be? The GPS showed us as only 1 km from the road, but an hour later, only 500 metres made and both myself and Jason now having to open a path up in front of us one could quite easily say we had again made the wrong decision. But this is what we had come to see and although it wasn’t the most testing of 4×4 driving we where deep in the wilds of Botswana with every chance that a pride of lions was following close behind.
Having finally made it out of the Mapane forest and found our not so main road, we thought it best to point our nose towards the West, as we had lost a lot of time that morning and still had a long way until our next campsite. Although we had still not found the large herds of Zebra the drive out was spectacular and we were treated to a few more sightings of the large elephant bulls of the Savuti.
Having checked out of the south east gate of the Chobe National Park we were not far from Moremi, a game reserve that spreads out into the heart of the Okavango Delta and with one of the highest floods had in years we were sure to encounter a lot of water. In this instance we were not mistaken and before we even made the gate we had to negotiate four river crossing and a very rickety bridge that was apparently only rated to 5 tons. At 4.5 fully loaded these were nervous times, but kudos must be given to Spermy who drove brilliantly through some of his first ever water courses.
With only two hours of daylight left we decided to take the advice given at the gate and not take the most direct route to our camp. Although we would have loved to test our car even further apparently with the floods being so high this route had been impassable for some time. This did however mean we would not make camp by sunset but also gave us the option of driving at night (not allowed in Botswana Game Reserves) and so possibly sighting our first leopard. Unfortunately, luck was not on our side and we limped into camp with no wood and some very hungry bellies.
The next morning we woke up a little later than usual and decided to treat ourselves to a cooked breaky of Bacon , Eggs, Baked Beans and South African Boerewors. With bulging tummies we headed off to Third Bridge, an area of the park which is a little more open and where lion had been spotted recently. Although we again struggled to find the ever elusive cats, we were treated to many different species of plains games and in particular the Stititunga. A rare and very shy antelope that resides and walks on the floating papyrus of the Okavango. However as expected and around almost every corner were the crystal clear waters of the Okavango Delta. 4×4 driving heaven but with a twist. As it was impossible to tell how deep the crossings were we would have to walk each beforehand. Not a difficult task but with croc and hippo abundant in the area it wasn’t long before the “spirit fingers” were out. Our sign that we had reached the limits of our bravery/stupidity. As the day wore on we became cockier in our ability to read the depth and would often cross a stretch of water without first walking it. However, one such crossing had water lilies, a tell tale sign that this was going to be a deep crossing. Having had a few beers at lunch the boys were all game to give it a crack. As it was Spermies turn to walk this one he hopped off the roof but before he even got to the water the “spirit fingers” were out. Not even the jeers from his mates could convince him to test these waters. As I was driving and knew should anything happen blame would be placed firmly on my shoulders at the next fines meeting, I decided to test walk it myself. I must add that at half way and with my testies already sunken below the water my nerves faltered and the spirit fingers again came out and I decided that it wouldn’t get much deeper than I already was. With the thumbs up from everyone I slipped the trusty rusty in to low range and locked all three diffs. Everything went “swimmingly” until just beyond where I had stopped we slipped into a sunken hole. With water above our top spotties and weeds under our tyres it wasn’t long before we lost traction and ultimately momentum. A bad combination when driving through water. Now stranded in the middle and with water cascading in all the doors, frantic stations where hit. Both Jason and Cory were both off the roof in a flash (crocs and hippos well forgotten) and it was quickly decided that reversing back out on our tracks would be the better option. Dan was not even able to offer any help as the pressure on the doors was such that he could even open it to get out and let’s face this man was not going to be able to climb out of the window 
. With the extra heave from the boys on the front bar and a sumos wrestlers face from Jason it was long before we regained traction and pulled the old girl out of her would be watery grave. Credit must be given to these vehicles as even after that little swim the old cruiser was still running as well as ever.
Having frayed our nerves a little we decided to head back to camp, unpack the car and dry the inside as best we could. This ended up taking quite a few hours and dusk was setting when we finished. That said the old girl was still pretty wet and we knew that the wet towel smell was soon to come. After a shower, shit and no shave the rest of the night was spent reliving the day around a roaring camp fire. True to nature these stories became more embellished as the night wore on and the beers flowed…..So take everything above with a pinch of salt.
The next day we were up before dawn and breaking camp, as we were leaving Xakanaxa and heading to South Gate campsite for our last night in Moremi. Once again game viewing was the order of the day and so when we had booked our camp spot we headed out to explore this part of the park. With almost every traveling regaling stories of cat they had seen just the previous day we where sure luck was on our side and today we would find these beasts. Not to be. Once again we were only treated to plains game and so a little disappointed we decided to do what every true Aussie does… head back to camp, have a few beers and play a little cricket. With spirits up again and dinner to be made, Cory and Jason headed off in search of wood. However it wasn’t long before both scuttled back into camp looking a little flustered but really chuffed with themselves. Whilst collecting wood they had come within 15 metres of a bull elephant, more than a little annoyed that they where pilfering wood where he was feeding. An experience I’m sure neither of them will forget. That said, at the same time Dan was chasing ellies through the brush, trying to get some close up film of his own.
After a great dinner of Boerewors, Mash and chuckuluka, both myself and Dan decided to call it a night. The other two were keen to finish off a movie they had started a few days before. However, it wasn’t long before the boys were scrambling in search of the slingshot and ball bearings as a large pack of hyenas had descended into camp, with one standing only a metre on the other side of the camp fire. When all were severely run out of camp in a shower of ball bearings and calm restored all four of us crept off to bed and listened to the herds of elephants cracking branches and trees all around the camp.
